Although it is not the only time of the year when pruning can be done, the waning moon of August is the preferred date for many people.

This is due to the lunar phase, because we are in the middle of winter, and because deciduous trees have not yet begun to sprout.

Here I want to share some important things to keep in mind when starting to prune.

First of all, consider whether there is a design for the land that includes not only the trees to be pruned but all the elements of the system.

For example, if we are going to prune trees located on the south side of another group of trees that will be left to grow tall, we will not want to prune them too low so that they can receive light.

The design defines the distance between the trees, the way they will be managed, and the different heights that will project shadows on each other. All of this is important to keep in mind when pruning.

Secondly, we will analyze what surrounds the tree we are going to prune and how this affects it, as pruning cannot fix problems caused by the environment.

Remember that pruning is part of a set of activities to help the tree grow strong and healthy. Pruning helps a lot, but it doesn’t solve all problems.

Next, we will see which species we are going to prune and what its requirements are. The tree's requirements depend, among other things, on its area of origin.

If it is a tree from warm areas, we will avoid pruning it in winter and wait a little longer so that frosts do not affect the tissues near the cuts.

In this way, we continue refining from larger to smaller aspects and can also look at the requirements of different varieties and cultivars. For example, pruning a Japanese plum is not the same as pruning a European plum. The latter tolerates less pruning and naturally has a much denser canopy.

It is also important to define the objective of the pruning… why it is being done.

The different objectives can be (among others):

• Training pruning, to shape the tree according to its morphology and the management that has been planned.

• Fruiting pruning, where the number of buds that will bear fruit is decided, as well as the buds that will produce leaves. These prunings affect the fruit-to-leaf ratio, the size of the fruit, and the demands placed on the plant, where it is important to consider whether the tree alternates or not, and in what stage it is.

  Alternation refers to the cycle where a tree produces a lot of seeds one year and rests the next, producing less.





• Rejuvenation pruning, where more than the recommended percentage of a tree is cut to induce new tissues. This procedure is very delicate and takes around 3 years to settle.

  
  

• Flowering pruning, as in roses, where we cut the fruits to induce new flowering.

I call generic pruning those that are almost always done, regardless of the objective.

Dry branches: these branches, besides serving no purpose, can injure others when strong winds blow. They can also host different types of pathogens. For these and many other reasons, it’s better to start here. Also, once the dry branches are removed, we will have a better idea of how to proceed with pruning.

Crossing branches: all those branches that grow toward the axis of the plant, whether it’s a central axis, pyramid, or vase formation (in this case, an imaginary axis). These branches cause much friction between them, damaging the plant. They also create favorable places for animals and greatly complicate plant management.

Suckers: these are very vigorous and vertical branches that often appear when the tree has been excessively pruned or when it has circulation problems. Always avoid those that grow from the base of a graft.

Others: Branches with very acute or obtuse angles, branches that are thicker than the branch they are attached to, or branches growing in a direction different from where they are oriented.

In some trees, it is natural for them to produce vertical branches with unsuitable or even twisted angles. Do not force a tree to take on a shape different from what it naturally manifests. This results in more work, less production, and a shorter life for the plant.

Remember that each plant has its specific requirements, and today there is a lot of information available for each species, variety, cultivar, etc. For example, citrus and native trees require little intervention unless we find dry or very crossed branches, which is not always the case. In the case of citrus trees, it is recommended that the trunk does not receive direct sunlight, so it is better not to raise them too much.

The Cut

The cut should be clean and as close to the branch insertion point as possible, without touching the bud below or the ring, which is the area with wrinkles in the bark where the branches join. To do this, we will use sharp tools with blades that are close together so that they don’t pinch and tear the wood.

The cut should be made at a 45-degree angle to the horizon so that water drains to a part of the branch that doesn’t have buds.

Other important factors to consider include cleaning the tools to avoid spreading diseases, and sealing large cuts so they are not exposed to insects, fungi, or bacteria.

In the audio, I talk about making a sealing paste with wax, oil, and copper sulfate, which is accepted in organic management. However, while these substances are not problematic in small amounts, they can become an issue when used over large areas and for long periods.

In general, if the climate is dry, the tree will heal quickly, and there will be no problem. Therefore, the level of humidity in the air is an extremely important factor to consider.

Here I leave you a couple of audios where I talk a bit about this and vegetative propagation with Danilo and Victoria on the show ”Between the Earth and the Hoe”.. A program I recommend from “Encantada Community Radio”, in Aigua.

Below I also leave a link so you can listen to it on Fridays at 3:30 PM, with a repeat on Tuesdays at 9 AM.

For any questions or if you need help with your pruning, I also leave my phone number. 099 518 520.

Back